Dear FolksIt is seven o'clock in the evening. I am at the Y.M.C.A. in a town where our regimental headquarters is situated. The reason for being there is because I am going on leave tomorrow at five A.M. Where is not known only that it is seven days leave exclusive of traveling. There were only ten from my company amongst them I was selected.
It is very dark in here, there are only a few candles in the whole place but I am figuring on a long trip by train in which time I will be deprived of the pleasure of writing.
Yesterday I received a letter and several pictures from Anna. The pictures are excellent, every one of the family looks well. The letter corroborated the looks of the photos.
The first opportunity I get to let you know of my whereabouts and how I got there, I will let you know. I am feeling fine and very anxious to get away to a change of scenery and away from drill. My brain is rusty. All dolled up with a new hat and shoe laces. I am ready to meet the furlough which was long coming, it has been A.W. O.L. for several months (ask David what that means).
I will try to have my photograph taken if I succeed I will send you a copy for a small sum.
Regards and love, George
Somewhere in France December 15, 1918 Dear Folks
Tuesday evening I wrote you a hurried letter from a Y.M.C.A. anticipating my going on furlough the following morning at five. All was well until that hour when the leave was postponed for twenty four hours. Wednesday was a gloomy rainy day. In the evening we reported to the headquarters and told that the trip was put off till Friday, the thirteenth. Another disappointment, back to the billet for the night. Thursday out with the company for a little while but my mind was somewhere else. Thursday night the ten were selected from our company, again packed our necessary articles and in a nasty rain we again made for the regimental headquarters where we were told the good news that the lorries (auto trucks) were ready to drive us to the station the following morning. I spent the rest of the evening at the Y.M.C.A. where I was entertained by our regimental show.
At five A.M. we pulled out in the autos, at seven we landed at a railroad, the rest of the day was ours the train was scheduled to leave at 8 p.m. the government paid each man 38 francs (equivalent to a dollar) a day for seven days. Also two boxes of matches which I almost forgot - perhaps they thought we had money to burn -- Made the best of the day scouting about town and paying enormous prices for sweets. The eight o'clock train left at nine, we traveled third class, eight men in a compartment. This doesn't belong in the narrative but the permissionaire read that we were bound for a place called Labourbone, nobody could find it on the map, no one knew what it was, it sounded like the name of a drink or an instrument but it didn't matter, we were going for a rest -- In the meantime the train is going and I am using up too much coal. We were issued three days rations when we started but we had pooled some money together and purchased cheese, sardines and jam. We had resolved not to eat bully beef and other canned garbage if we could help it. After a ride of a day the orders were changed and we were switched to a place called Aix les Bains, a leave area that you probable read about. If not, you will.
We made several stops which gave us an opportunity to buy eatables if necessary. Oh, yes, the rations that were issued we distributed to the people along the road. It all depended on the looks of the person - a pretty damsel received a barrage of salmon, bully beef and roast beef. A married woman two or three cans of embalmed beef. Old maids had to be satisfied with one can, children and males got cigarettes, "bull" tobacco and good tobacco. The tracks were strewn with cans, bread, tobacco, it looked like a market. At one station I weighed myself but I don't know how much it is, it gave out the sum in kilos and by the time I get to a place and find out how much a kilo is, I won't weigh the same. To make a long story longer, we arrived at our destination at three o'clock. Before I landed I was in love with the place, it looked beautiful. One hour later were assigned to hotels. We had our choice as to the number in a room and we selected a room for four. It is the most beautiful bed room I ever saw, four beds, white sheets immaculately clean, an upholstered couch for an afternoon nap, a writing desk, several mirrors and two or three closets for our wardrobe. My other handkerchief is already hanging there. The walls are decorated with oil paintings by John D. etc.
After a hurried inspection of the (billet - I don't mean billet) sleeping compartment, I investigated about bathing. Several minutes later with fluent French and aid of a towel and soap and scrubbing brush, the chamber maid led me to a tub bath. My ambition was realized, I was happy, I was never surrounded by so much water (except when we dug in, there I go again) since I enlisted in the army. At six o'clock I dressed for supper, my own comrades didn't recognize me. At six thirty we dined and what a supper --- Real soup, fried fish, real potatoes, coffee and apples, beer extra. Who do you think I am anyhow? One fellow didn't know what to do with the napkins, he asked me and I told them that they use them for babies (folded in two) and we were infantry.
After the chow (I can't forget that) we promenaded to the Casino where the Y.M.C.A. is located. It is a most wonderful place. There are so many different halls that I didn't get a chance to visit them all -- A large assembly room, dance hall, theater, music house, library, writing room, restaurant, and canteen are some that I inspected. They have mile posts with directions so that you don't get lost. It is advisable to get several days rations when going about the place.
At ten o'clock a little tired we were back to our quarters found the rest of the gang, talked over our experiences and to bed at eleven. it was a crime to spoil the white sheets it was a shame to disturb them. At eight o'clock I awoke, the fellow next to me was studying his French books to find out the word for omelet. I resolved to say encore to no matter what he ordered.
Half an hour later we were washed and ready for breakfast which consisted of apple sauce, coffee and bread and butter and eggs for the last there is an extra charge.
An hour later I purchased several views of the hotel at the Y.M.C.A. writing room to write you about my furlough and here it is. Am enclosing four photographs of the place, the finest hotel I ever stopped in. The officer in charge told us that the government pays eighteen francs a day for each individual. That is more than three dollars a day in wholesale. In New York it would probably cost five dollars a day to receive the same accommodations. Will write you every day of my experiences and how I am spending my time.
With love, George
Aix les Bains, France December 17, 1918 Dear Anna
Am spending my furlough in a most beautiful summer resort often frequented in the winter on account of the mild weather. Seven days are allowed excluding the travel, the government pays eighteen francs daily for board and lodging also provides a dollar a day spending money. The hotel is beautiful, the meals are excellent and the surroundings are magnificent. Am taking life very easy, little strain and effort, just drifting. There is enough amusement in the Y.M.C.A. to keep me here for a year without tiring. Yesterday a Y.M.C.A. secretary took a crowd to show the ancient temples and other places of interest also enlightened us on the history of the place. It seems that before the war this was a famous bathing place Kings, Queens and jacks visited and took treatment here. Even our millionaire J.P. Morgan has a bath house (I visited it but he was out) with a suite of rooms, he also founded a hospital in the near by vicinity so you realize that I am where nobility was at one time but I don't mind it, they aren't dangerous. About an hour ago I returned from a mountain that is 5000 feet above sea level it costs a dollar to go up in a little car run by a cog-wheel. Most interesting sights, beautiful scenery. About half way up it started to snow and when we reached the top there was a real blizzard, a whirlpool it just carried you off your feet. We visited a restaurant built at the summit, drank a hot beverage and back to the car. An hour later we were again in town, no sign of snow, no sign of blizzard, beautiful mild weather. Tonight there are several concerts at the Y.M.C.A. which I will attend, in fact there is always something doing there, it sure is a wonderful place. A theatre, ball room, restaurant, library, writing room, music house, billiard room, all comforts of home.
Love to all, George
Aix les Bains, France December 18, 1918 Dear Folks,
Yesterday was very unsettled, the weather was threatening and I decided to stay close to the hotel in preference to going around the mountains or taking a bicycle ride to nearby towns. Breakfast is from eight to nine thirty. I am always there at nine twenty nine sharp. At ten thirty I felt much better although my appetite was gone, you would imagine that it would go after three eggs, apple sauce, plenty of bread and butter and coffee with a few crackers.
Immediately after lunch we took two sandwiches each and went to the photographers to have our picture taken. There is only one place and about 20000 trying to have their physiognomies preserved. We got into line and awaited our next. Some boys brought the blanket others pitched tents, I was sorry I didn't bring my knitting. At five o'clock I was executed to perfection. Then back to the Y.M.C.A. to a band concert which was of the highest caliber. Our good old American tunes. After the musicale we visited the restaurant where chocolates, crackers and cakes are served at cost. We were not hungry but there was a very pretty little Y.M.C.A. damsel behind the counter and right away everybody wanted chocolate -- No casualties --- Supper at six thirty, back to the Y.M.C.A. for another concert. It resembles a three ring circus, all going at the same time. Several performances are given simultaneously to accommodate all. The programme was made up of some very fine professional talent, vocal solos, harp duets, pianologues and several recitations. This ended about nine thirty, we walked into another hall and a trio was banging away the popular American rags, "Over There" and others, the reaction was so great the contrast so big that my musical instinct did not permit me to linger, I walked fifty yards into the theatre just in time to see a troupe of acrobats tumbling to the tune of 'Swanee River", you can't get away from it. Half hour of vaudeville satisfied me, out again into the assembly hall where the boys played a rough and tumble game, watched them a minute and back to the hotel, it was a day well spent.
George
Aix les Bains, France December 19, 1918
Dear Folks,
Immediately after breakfast, four of us started for the sulfur baths, you have your choice of tub, shower, or hose, we took one of each. For once I felt like a millionaire, only several years before our visit this same house was frequented by the Morgans and other millionaires. The baths are wonderful, there is a steady stream of hot water with no variations in temperature. What an appetite I had when we reached the hotel. Dinner over, we went to the rail road station for a train that goes up a mountain about 5000 feet above sea level. Its a little car similar to the ones used on scenic railway in Coney Island. Only one car with the engine behind it. The scenery is wonderful, every minute it became colder until finally we reached the op, a blizzard was raging with tremendous wind accompaniment. It was more like a whirlpool, it almost took you off your feet. We hurried to the summit where we visited a dainty little hotel. The snow and gale deprived us of the beautiful view, they claim that on a clear day you can see Mount Blanc and seven or eight continents including Brooklyn, I don't know how many there are but I think it is a very interesting sight. We spent little time and more money for a hot beverage and after a discussion as to what we would tell the boys who refused to go up, we made for the train. There is only one track, no collisions, no accidents we took the last train which was the first out. As the train puffed down the steep incline the snow began to disappear, the temperature higher, there was more atmosphere in the air. In a little while the car stopped at the station we were back in Aix les Bains and glad to be there. There was no sign of snow or rain or anything else. The people going about without overcoats while we had our hats on over our ears and coat collars up. How wonderful nature is.
Back to the hotel, thawed out in time for supper. The usual food, real pomme de terre, rice. At eight thirty at the Y.M.C.A. enjoying the concerts, entertainments, everything in general. Eleven back to the hotel for the night.
With love, George
Aix les Bains, France December 21, 1918 Dear Folks
Yesterday it rained very heavily but we braved it and took a trip to a town nearby to see the ancient museum and art galleries. Three of us had the place all to ourselves and enjoyed it very much, it kept us out of the rain. At one we had dinner at the finest hotel in town, we purchased a bottle of real wine just to show several officers who were sitting behind us that we could afford the best in the house. After the repast we started souvenir hunting, the stores are ready to serve us, they are all for the A.E.F. after every franc. Two hours of shopping brought little result, the prices are ridiculous, so exorbitant that even the American soldier who parts with his money like a "sailor" thinks twice before he invests. Half an hour later we found the right place, I purchased a pencil and notebook for forty cents, the same can be bought in New York for about ten cents. A little later we found the best place in town, the station where we waited a few minutes and at six o'clock we were again in the hotel telling of the wonderful time we had. The other fellows envied us and they decided to go the following morning if it doesn't rain, I hope it doesn't. The supper was excellent especially after the strenuous day. At eight we went again to the Casino to the concerts about three in all, vocal, instrumental band, you can have your choice -- we wound the night up with chocolate and crackers served at the Y.M.C.A. Eleven o'clock found us in our room ready to retire and we did.
George
Somewhere in France December 26, 1918 Dear Folks,
Have returned from my furlough in time for a Christmas dinner for which the cooks have been saving the last month. It was a treat indeed, especially after a 36 hour ride in a third class cabin -- The trip was scheduled to take eighteen hours but was delayed to allow President Wilson's train to pass. We watched the train very religiously for several hours but could see no trace of our President, finally the royal train pulled out and as the cars passed every one in our car saw the President, one saw him in the smoker, another in the dining car, still another in the sleeping quarters, I was positive he was in the library. The question now is, was he on the train? Send the replies to the editor.
Yes, back with the company, back in the old hotel - little changes about the place except the ground has a white coating and the trees are covered with white pearls. The boys are all in the same condition anxiously awaiting their chances for leave.
My last day in Aix les Bains was very similar to the others, spent in the hotel resting and dreaming of home. This place is the nearest thing to 70 East 120 Street I have struck in this country. Have mailed cards to all the writers of the thirteen letters that awaited me when I returned from the "country" now I am satisfied.
With love, George